《禮記·內則》裡有一串名字,念起來像菜單:「牛脩、鹿脯、田豕脯、麋脯、麕脯。」——牛脩、鹿脯、野豬肉脯、麋脯、麕脯,五種乾肉,一字排開。下一句是「麋、鹿、田豕麕皆有軒,雉、兔皆有芼」,再往下就轉到別的菜了:它不說這些脯怎麼切、怎麼醃、用多少鹽。《齊民要術》卷八的「脯腊第七十五」反過來:節令、天數、手感寫得細,配比卻全是「適口」「量多少」。兩頁對讀,正好一個給菜單,一個給做法,中間沒有一張共同的表。
牛脩、鹿脯、田豕脯
《內則》這一節列的是飯、膳、飲、酒、羞、食的次序,脯是「食」裡的東西;這是禮書的規定,不是誰家廚房的帳;一般認為《禮記》編成於戰國至漢初,它把大夫、士、庶人耆老分開來規定。五種名字裡,只有「鹿脯」兩個字和今天的「肉脯」同形,其餘各按各的叫法。「麋、鹿、田豕麕皆有軒,雉、兔皆有芼」一句,本頁無注,「脩」「軒」「芼」怎麼講,這裡不替它補。能確定的只是名單:野豬、麋、麕、鹿、牛上了這張菜單。
麥食、脯羹、兔醢
脯在《內則》裡從不單獨出現。「食:蝸醢而苽食、雉羹,麥食、脯羹、雞羹,折稌、犬羹、兔羹,和糝不蓼。」——麥食配脯羹、雞羹;稻米飯配犬羹、兔羹。再往下是一張配對表:「腶脩,蚳醢;脯羹,兔醢;麋膚,魚醢;魚膾,芥醬;麋腥,醢醬;桃諸、梅諸,卵鹽。」——腶脩配蚳醢,脯羹配兔醢,麋膚配魚醢,每一樣都有它的醬。醢,通行訓釋是肉醬;本頁無注。
還有一條等級規矩:「大夫燕食,有膾無脯,有脯無膾。」——大夫平時吃飯,有細切的膾就不上脯,有脯就不上膾,兩樣不並出;底下接著「士不貳羹胾」「庶人耆老不徒食」。另有一句把乾肉排進季節菜單:「夏宜腒鱐,膳膏臊。」——夏天宜腒鱐;腒鱐,通行訓釋是乾肉與乾魚,本頁無注。到這裡為止,禮書管的都是「配什麼、什麼時候上、誰能並吃」,沒有一句講切法、鹽量與天數。
片脯三宿,條脯嘗看
北魏的《齊民要術》,「脯腊第七十五」先給時間表:「正月、二月、九月、十月為佳。」——五味脯挑這四個月。「用牛、羊、麞、鹿、野豬、家豬肉。或作條,或作片……」,破肉要「順理,不用斜斷」。然後是流程:牛羊骨搥碎,煮熟取汁,掠去浮沫,停之使清;用好豉以骨汁煮,色足味調,漉去滓;冷了下鹽、細切蔥白擣熟,椒、薑、橘皮皆末之,以浸脯,「手揉令徹」。出缸看形狀:「片脯三宿則出,條脯須嘗看味徹乃出。」——片的三夜就出,條的要用嘴嘗到味透。
出了缸就掛起來陰乾,條脯「浥浥時,數以手搦令堅實」;成了「置虛靜庫中」,因為「著煙氣則味苦」;「紙袋籠而懸之」,因為「置於甕則鬱浥」,不籠則「青蠅、塵污」。臘月做的條脯另有名字「瘃脯」,堪度夏;取時「先取其肥者」——肥的膩,不耐久。
其他幾法各有時間。度夏白脯「臘月作最佳。正月、二月、三月,亦得作之」;甜肥脯「臘月取獐、鹿肉」,不著鹽;鱧魚脯「十一月初,至十二月末作之」;五味腊「臘月初作」,浸「四五日」;脆腊也是「臘月初作」;浥魚「四時皆得作之」。為什麼挑這些月份,書裡不說;能看到的只有安排:要過夏的,趕在臘月做。
十箇一貫
鱧魚脯最見手藝:「不鱗不破,直以杖刺口中,令到尾。」——不刮鱗、不開膛,一根杖從魚口直穿到尾巴,杖尖做成「樗蒱之形」。「作鹹湯,令極鹹,多下薑、椒末,灌魚口,以滿為度。」——極鹹的湯,多放薑椒末,從魚口灌滿。「竹杖穿眼,十箇一貫,口向上,於屋北簷下懸之,經冬令瘃。至二月、三月,魚成。」——竹杖穿孔,十條一貫,魚口朝上,掛在北簷下過冬,到二三月才成。吃法兩種:「生刳取五臟,酸醋浸食之」;或者「草裹泥封,煻灰中爊之」,去泥草,用皮布裹著搥,「白如珂雪」。
另兩法講的是手感。度夏白脯取精肉:「破作片,冷水浸,搦去血,水清乃止」;白鹽澄清加椒末浸,「再宿出,陰乾」;半乾時「以木棒輕打,令堅實」,但「僅使堅實而已,慎勿令碎肉出」。甜肥脯更省:「片,厚薄如手掌。直陰乾,不著鹽」,成品「脆如凌雪」。這些「浥浥」「堅實」「脆」都是手上與嘴上的詞,不是秤上的數。
適口而已
配比確實沒有。鹽是「適口而已,勿使過鹹」;椒、薑、橘皮「皆末之」,注一句「量多少」;骨汁煮豉只要求「色足味調」。同卷的肉醬法就精確得多:「肉一斗,麴末五升,白鹽兩升半,黃蒸一升。」但那是醬,不是脯;同一卷的數不能搬過來用,書裡也沒說為什麼脯不記數。能照做的只有順序和手感:煮汁、下鹽、揉透、出缸、穿繩、陰乾、搦實、籠懸。
兩頁合起來,各給了一半。禮書給名單與配對:五種脯、脯羹配兔醢、大夫燕食有膾無脯;農書給時令與手法:正月到十月、片脯三宿、十箇一貫、紙袋籠懸。中間沒有一張共同的表:禮書不說脯怎麼做,農書不說脯配什麼。還有一層分線:卷八相鄰的「作魚鮓第七十四」講鮓與糟,是濕法醃漬;這一篇「脯腊第七十五」講乾法,兩篇相連。兩頁都不載脯的價錢、重量與產地;本篇不折現代重量,也不寫「保存食物的智慧」這類話。
延伸閱讀:唐長安人怎麼住:坊、院與一間賃來的宅 · 圭、束帛與乘馬:聘禮裡的一次出使 · 下棺那一天:既夕禮的啟、遷、發引與反哭
參考來源與延伸閱讀
- 《齐民要术》卷第八·脯腊第七十五(北魏贾思勰;维基文库本,未与点校本复核) — The whole dry-curing chapter. Five-flavour dried meat: 'the first, second, ninth and tenth months are best' (正月、二月、九月、十月為佳); meats 'beef, mutton, zhang, deer, wild boar and domestic pig, cut into strips or slices' (或作條,或作片), always with the grain; bone broth, fermented beans, then 'salt — to taste only, do not let it be too salty' (鹽,適口而已,勿使過鹹), scallion white pounded, 'pepper, ginger and orange peel all powdered, as much as needed' (椒、薑、橘皮,皆末之,量多少); steep and 'knead through with the hand' (手揉令徹); 'slices come out after three nights, strips when you taste the flavour has gone through' (片脯三宿則出,條脯須嘗看味徹乃出); string them and dry in shade under the north eave; press strips firm while damp; keep in a quiet store, 'smoke makes the taste bitter', 'paper bag and hang — in a jar it sweats, unbagged it takes flies and dust' (紙袋籠而懸之); twelfth-month strips are 'chill-cured' (瘃脯) and keep through summer; 'take the fat first, fat is greasy and does not keep' (先取其肥者). White dried meat for summer: twelfth month best, first to third also possible; lean flesh, cold-water soak and wring until clear, clear white brine with pepper, two nights, shade-dry, 'tap lightly with a stick to firm it, firm only, do not let shreds come out' (僅使堅實而已,慎勿令碎肉出). Sweet fat dried meat: twelfth month, zhang and deer, slices as thick as a palm, shade-dried 'with no salt', 'crisp as snow'. Snakehead dried meat: eleventh month to end of twelfth, unscaled and unopened, a stick thrust mouth to tail, extremely salty brine with ginger and pepper poured into the mouth, bamboo through the eyes, 'ten to a string' (十箇一貫), hung under the north eave through winter, done by the second or third month, eaten raw with sour vinegar or roasted in mud and embers until 'white as snow'. Five-flavour cured meat: twelfth month, birds and fish, steeped 'four or five days'; crisp cured meat: twelfth month, boiled then shade-dried; damp-salted fish: any season. The same juan's meat-paste recipe is exact by contrast (one dou meat, five sheng koji powder, two and a half sheng white salt, one sheng yellow steamed wheat), which is why the absence of figures in the dried-meat methods is a fact about this chapter, not about the book.
- 《礼记·内则》(维基文库本,未与点校本复核) — The ritual menu. The list of dried meats: 'beef strips, dried deer, dried wild boar, dried mi, dried jun; mi, jun, deer and wild boar each had their xuan, pheasant and hare their mao' (牛脩、鹿脯、田豕脯、麋脯、麕脯……雉、兔皆有芼). The pairings: 'wheat food with dried-meat soup and chicken soup' (麥食、脯羹、雞羹); 'sliced dried meat with ant-egg paste; dried-meat soup with rabbit paste; elk skin with fish paste; fish slices with mustard sauce' (腶脩,蚳醢;脯羹,兔醢……). The rank rule: 'a grand officer at an ordinary meal has either minced meat or dried meat, not both' (大夫燕食,有膾無脯,有脯無膾), followed by 'a shi does not have two soups and two cuts' and 'commoners' elders do not eat bare'. The seasonal line: 'in summer, dried meat and dried fish are fitting, with rank-smelling fat' (夏宜腒鱐,膳膏臊). The page is text without commentary: it does not gloss xiu, xuan, mao, hai, ju or su, and gives no method, salt quantity or day count anywhere.




